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Employing intricate cycles of ritual observance punctuated with marvelous
pageantry and even bloody spectacle, the Toraja devote much time and effort
to the care of their ancestors. The Toraja believe their forebears reside
in heaven and participate directly in the welfare of the material world through
their blessing. To conduct the souls of the deceased safely into the next
world, the Toraja mount elaborate ceremonies which also serve to solidify
bonds of mutual obligation among the traditionally suspicious clan groups.
Villages can swell to many times their normal populations as families stage
enormous funerals, often years after the loved one has passed away. In the
invariably muddy field and pathways hundreds of chickens and pigs are summarily
dispatched. Events range from quiet prayers and solemn processions to stirring
hymn singing and exciting battles between water buffaloes, all conducted
in a festive atmosphere of clan solidarity and reunion.
For visitors, this is a magnificent show, as the ever hospitable Toraja will
make arrangements to accommodate everyone who attends the ceremonies. Even
a young backpacker stumbling into a Toraja funeral is offered a space in
the temporary shelters erected for the occasion. The shelter set aside for
tourists is generally in a good location, behind the closest relatives and
community leaders, of course, but often far closer to the action than shelters
reserved for distant or impoverished relations. Foreigners are considered
honored quests, whose arrival from afar adds a cosmopolitan element to the
festive occasion.
The ceremonies, which are complicated in nature and last for days, culminate
in the dramatic spectacle where water buffaloes and pigs are slaughtered
with great ceremony using a machete (called Parang) right in front of everyone's
eyes while young boys jostle to catch spurting blood in long bamboo tubes.
Many tourists find this utterly disgusting and are coming away feeling a
little out of sympathy with this particular set of customs. The more buffaloes
sacrificed, the quicker the journey will be, it is thought, to Puya, the
Aluk To Dolo afterworld. Buffaloes piebald in color are especially valued
for these ceremonies and are accordingly very expensive in the region.
The most well-known ceremonial field in Tana Toraja is the touristy rante
in Bori', the most authentic one, however,
is Rante Tendan in Balusu. Also
refer to Rante Karassik and "The monoliths of the Toraja".
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